Matthias Hüttmann is a Fruchtwerker (fruit artisan) heart and soul. Using traditional, handcrafted methods, his manufactory produces vinegar from fruit. The North German's imagination knows no bounds. This creative mind has developed numerous varieties and shows no signs of stopping.
A conversation with Matthias Hüttmann from Fruchtwerker
Mr. Hüttmann, how did you come up with the idea for your vinegar manufactory?
Our origin story is now over 30 years old. There used to be a raspberry farm near Ratzeburg, where a farmer named Emma sold an incredible raspberry vinegar for 15 years. We had a holiday home nearby, and I was one of her small customer base. Then I heard she wanted to retire and give up her business. I said: "Wait, you can't do that! The product is simply too good. You have to keep developing it, not end it." I bought the product from her and initially started producing fruit vinegar on the side.
The farmer Emma made an incredible raspberry vinegar.
So you became a "Fruchtwerker" overnight?
Actually, I was anything but a fruit artisan back then. I studied law, and after graduation, I ended up in the management of food companies. The first company was involved in the natural coloring of food, such as with beta-carotene. I worked there in sales and marketing for nine years. Afterward, I spent seven professional years on the board of a company that professionally dries fruit. So, the subject matter wasn't entirely unfamiliar to me. In 2009, I had to decide once and for all to go for "Fruchtwerker." I haven't done anything else since!
What is the secret to your recipe?
We don't give away the whole secret, of course. But maceration is the key to our success. It involves real craftsmanship, and that simply takes time. We don't use heat or warmth to accelerate the process. Heating distorts the color and flavoring aromas of fruit. Of course, we use other details, tricks, and techniques. But maceration is a purely physical process through which we extract the valuable ingredients. We work with the pure fruit without any additives.
Maceration involves real craftsmanship that takes time.
How does maceration work?
Technically speaking, the farmer Emma already used maceration. She soaked fresh raspberries in vinegar for a week. It releases dyes and aroma from the fruit. After pressing the macerate, she boiled the liquid down with sugar. We started with Emma's raspberry vinegar recipe. In principle, we still produce our fruit vinegar the same way. Of course, the quantities have increased. This year, we are launching our tenth variety. The duration of maceration depends on the fruit. Apples release their aroma and color into the apple cider vinegar completely after just four days. For currants, it takes, for example, ten days. We don't know exactly why that is. That is simply our experience.
In what quantities do you produce fruit vinegar now?
We started with 15-liter pots in Schmilau near Ratzeburg. Then we had a small kitchen in Mecklenburg. Since 2016, we have had a cooking facility here in Talkau. It holds a volume of 200 liters per cooker. We produce about 300,000 bottles every year on 400 m². The location is ideal in terms of transport. But if we continue to grow, we'll have to think of something new again.
We started with 15 l cooking pots.
How do new recipes come about?
We don't have a specific development department. On the side, we create new recipes in small quantities. Then we test the taste as a team. We like some things, others not so much. Only when we are truly convinced do we add the mixture or new product to the total range.
What characterizes Fruchtwerker vinegar in terms of quality?
Our fruit content is actually higher than that of most other manufacturers. Our vinegar contains an average of 25% fruit. The proportion varies slightly depending on the type of fruit. This means that a quarter of our recipe is real fruit, and that makes the difference. Other producers generally use fruit juice concentrates. We take the time for artisanal maceration. This is how we extract the original flavor spectrum of a fruit. We refrain from using any additives and rely on nature. Genetically modified raw materials would also be an absolute no-go for us. This attitude is part of our core brand.
We extract the original flavor spectrum of a fruit.
Where do you source your fruit from?
We source red fruits from the region as much as possible. That is literally close at hand. However, we now need large quantities. Sometimes we have to buy red fruits additionally. We receive them from a Hamburg dealer. This is usually German produce. Sometimes the fruit also comes from Poland or Serbia. We definitely do not source goods from China. We don't know if the fruit there contains pesticides or anything else. We are definitely sticking to European raw materials. We receive citrus fruits from Spain, Italy, or Greece. We buy vinegar from a large manufacturer whom we know very well.
Why do you use agave syrup for Blackberry & Vinegar?
Sugar reduction and sugar substitutes are current topics. Last year, we launched Vinegar & Blackberry with agave syrup. The syrup sweetens about 30% more strongly than sugar. We can use it in significantly smaller quantities. This has a positive effect on the list of ingredients. The carbohydrate content drops. However, agave syrup costs almost six times as much as sugar. The end product is more expensive. Nevertheless, our customers are enthusiastic about the vinegar. This spring, there is a creation with blueberry. We are actually considering offering our entire range with agave syrup. That ultimately depends on the wishes of the consumers.
It is madness to transport products halfway around the world.
Why is regionality important to you?
The same reason lies behind this as why we avoid flown-in oranges. It is madness to transport products halfway around the world. Sometimes I don't even understand how that calculates out in terms of costs. We source our apples from my friend. His fruit farm is located here in the Sachsenwald, not even 20 km away as the crow flies. The quantities he cannot supply, we get from the Altes Land. That is a very well-known fruit-growing region south of the Elbe. Why should I get apples from Lake Constance? We maintain long-standing relationships with our suppliers here. Long before the term sustainability was a big topic, we paid attention to regionality. It simply makes no sense to ship goods around the world if I can get them locally.
How did you come up with the name Fruchtwerker?
Fruchtwerker is a made-up word. The name clarifies the artisanal aspect of our production. Maceration is an old process. Centuries ago, people already soaked fruits and then pressed them. Craftsmanship is clearly part of our company philosophy, and the fruit is at the center of it. This is also reflected in our design. The script font points to handiwork. That is also how customers and retailers perceive us.
For us, the fruit is at the center.
What plans do you have for the future?
We are thinking about expanding our range with new products. Vinegar production is in principle similar to syrup production. Conventional syrup usually consists of aromas, food coloring, and perhaps a bit of juice concentrate. We are considering offering a traditionally produced syrup. We are exchanging ideas with a Hamburg university about innovative fruit spreads. In any case, the core of our work on new products will remain natural production. Craftsmanship and real fruit are our mission.
What should customers appreciate about your fruit vinegar?
We work with real fruit and offer authentic taste. Therefore, our vinegar is intense and very economical as a seasoning. Our customers are very satisfied. They feel the price-performance ratio is fair and are happy to pay a little more. Our Blackberry & Vinegar is one euro more expensive due to the agave syrup. But customers understand and accept that, too. They feel more comfortable with the sugar alternative. We are very happy about that. It shows us that customers appreciate our quality and are happy to pay a reasonable price for it.
Do you have a favorite product and a recipe recommendation?
I personally like our Orange & Vinegar the best. We process organic oranges with the peel into an orange purée for this. This way, the essential oils of the fruit get into the vinegar. This results in a slightly bitter taste like with English orange marmalade. For years, I have loved our recipe recommendation: Marinated Chicken with Orange & Vinegar. Towards the end of the cooking process, brush the chicken two or three times with the fruit vinegar. This gives you a delicious crust. That tastes excellent!
